Renewing an old tradition
90后中国设计师圆梦纽约
www.combinews.com
BY wangxingwei from 21st Century
Published 2019-05-22
Designer Zhang Yan wants to bring traditional embroidery back into high fashion. CGTN
导读:在人们的固有印象中,作为传统工艺的刺绣向来是女孩子们做的针线活。而90后大男孩张彦却打破了这一刻板印象,将刺绣带出国门,让全世界领略刺绣的古典之美。

For ages, embroidery has been known as a woman’s job. However, like any good fashion designer, Zhang Yan dares to be different.
刺绣多年来都被视为女性从事的工作。而正如其他优秀的时装设计师一样,张彦敢于与众不同。

In the last three months, the 25-year-old’s work has hit New York and changed stereotypes about men and needlework.
在过去的3个月里,这位25岁设计师的作品登陆纽约,改变了人们对于男性以及针线活的刻板印象。

His show in New York was called Fusheng, which means “a floating life”. It featured thin silk and intricate Suzhou embroidery. Zhang explained his method and technique to CGTN. He used a firm, transparent silk to symbolize the two characteristics of flexibility and steadiness. These refer to the two periods of our lives – when we are young and when we grow up.
他在纽约的大秀名为“浮生”,意思是“漂泊的人生”。现场展出了轻盈的绸缎以及精美的苏绣。张彦向中国国际电视台讲解了自己的工艺方法。他用坚韧通透的丝绸来代表灵活与坚定这两种品质。这也指代了人生的两个阶段 —— 少年时与长大后。

At the curtain call of the show, about 100 children came up to the catwalk amid Chinese classical music. They wore clothes with traditional Chinese patterns, like goldfish, pine needles and dragons, symbolizing good luck and strength. Zhang said he wants adults to find their childhood courage through his clothes.
在秀场谢幕时,约有100名儿童在中国古典乐的音乐声中走上T台。他们身穿带有传统中国元素的服饰,比如金鱼、松针以及龙等,象征着好运和强健。张彦称他希望成年人能通过他的服饰,找回自己童年时的勇气。

Zhang’s path to success was not easy. It’s a journey full of sweat and tears. After being inspired by museum pieces, Zhang spent about four years learning to embroider on cheongsam, or qipao – a traditional slit dress. Once a part of everyday fashion, Zhang wants to bring embroidery to the world of high design, giving full play to its classical beauty.
张彦的成功之路并非一帆风顺,这段旅程交织着汗水与泪水。受到博物馆藏品的启发,张彦花了四年时间学习旗袍(一种传统高衩裙)上的绣工。刺绣曾属于日常时尚,张彦希望将刺绣带入高级设计的世界,充分展现刺绣的古典之美。

Though handling the tiny needle with his big hands wasn’t easy at first, after three to five years of practice, Zhang said he has greatly improved his work, in terms of both texture and detail. He says he tries “to be enthusiastic, stay interested and keep moving on.”
尽管一开始张彦的一双大手做不好精细的针线活,但经过三年五载的练习,张彦称自己的作品在材质和细节上都获得了极大的改进。他表示,自己努力做到“充满热情,保持兴趣,不断前进?!?/font>

(Translator & Editor: Wang Xingwei AND Luo Sitian)
http://www.combinews.com/story/3314.html
辞海拾贝
Embroidery  刺绣
   
Stereotypes  刻板印象
Featured  有…...特色
   
Intricate  精细的
Transparent  透明的
   
Flexibility  灵活性
Slit dress  高开叉裙子
   
Texture  材质